Building and Flying Dick Baxter's XE-5

Construction and Flying Notes for the XE5

Note: These are not intended as complete instructions for building and flying a model such as the XE-5. Excellent resources for basic "stick and tissue" technique already exist. I strongly recommend such references as Don Ross's first book, easily purchased from Don's web site, and other materials available at your local hobby shop. I also have an online introductory guideline to building and flying such models prepared by noted modeler George Benson. While not as complete as a full book, George has prepared a concise document that is easily downloaded and printed.
If this is your first model I would recommend starting with something a bit simpler like Dick's Big Pussycat or Akro designs. They are quicker and easier to build and easier to fly successfully due to the reduced complexity of the design. The XE-5 would be a great second model.
- Thayer

From: Dick Baxter
Building Notes
Installing the Landing Gear
Bend gear to shape using the pattern on sheet 3.
Spring open or closed to get a snug fit between the longerons at the body station just in front of the lower wing.
Cement in place using Duco or similar cement applied to the body side verticals at the landing gear station. When the glue is dry apply 2 or more liberal coats of cement to lock gear in place.
Making Wheel Bearings
Pierce the wheel with .025 wire and apply a liberal bead of Duco to the wire on each side of the wheel. Breath lightly on the wet glue bead to from a stabilizing "skin" on the beads of cement. Spin slowly and align wheel so it spins without wobbling. Set aside to dry overnight. Next day trim glue on wire about 1/16 out from the wheel. Twist wire loose.
Making Wrinkled Paper
Cut tissue about 1" oversize. Roll up into a little ball. Smooth out as best you can on a flat surface, using only your fingers. Cover model using dope or 50/50 mix of white glue and water for adhesive. Do not dope or water shrink paper or your model will warp.
Making Sliced Ribs
Make a sliced rib template from something thin and hard. Metal from a tin can is suitable. Cardboard is usable but won't last long. Make the template approximately rectangular, and then cut one surface to match the top of the rib shown on sheet 3. Make the template a bit too long at the trailing edge. File or sandpaper the rib profile edge or the template smooth.
Use the sliced rib template to cut wing ribs 1/8 inch wide and a bit more than 3 inches long from 1/16 sheet.
Grain in the ribs must run chordwise or the ribs will break. Make a first cut using the template to shape the top of the first rib. Move the template down 1/8 inch and make a second cut to finish the first rib and shape the top of the second rib. Continue until you have 12 ribs. Notice that tip ribs are made from 1/16 x 1/8 strips and are not cambered.
Sanding
Don't sand anything unless you are very careful not to break the structure. If you want to sand the structure use 120 grit garnet paper wrapped on a block about 1" x 3" and about 1/4" thick. Support the structure you are sanding from behind with your hand. Don't over do it. Better a few rough spots than a broken frame.
Glue
Use Duco Household Cement or Testor's Green Label for structure. Use 50/50 mix of white glue and water for attaching tissue.
Covering
Cover wing and tail on one side only (see plan) with wrinkled tissue. Cover the body with smooth or wrinkled tissue. Your choice. Wet structure to be covered with tissue adhesive and carefully lay tissue on structure. Then pull out big wrinkles and smooth edges. Take care or you will tear the wet tissue.
Do not water shrink or dope tissue or your model will warp.
Debonding
Use wax paper or "SARAN WRAP" over the plan to prevent overflow glue from bonding the frames to the plan paper. Crayon or candle wax rubbed on the plane works too, but not as well.
Embryo Legal Model
An EMBRYO class version of the XE5 may be made by incorporating minor changes shown on sheet 4 of the drawing.

Flying Instructions
Low Power Flight Trim - Do This First!
Low power means that the motor is wound up only 200 to 300 turns. After you achieve good low power trim the model should fly one or two circles and may not climb much on low power turns
Low power stalls and dives: Add ballast to the nose or tail to cure. Plasticine (modeling clay) works well.
Spiral dives at low power: Add washout to the outboard wing tips (warp trailing edge up at the tip)
If circle size is too big or too small, offset the rudder trailing edge a little. Move it towards the center of the circle to make the circle smaller, away from the center for a larger circle.
High Power Trim - Do This Second!
After low power circle size and pitch trim is OK adjust high power flight with thrust line adjustments only.
Do not change low power trim cg or warps.
High power stalls and dives: Add downthrust or upthrust shims between the nose block and body to cure.
Spiral dives at high power: Add sidethrust out of the circle.
General Comments
Most XE5(s) like to fly left turns.
Power: Start with a loop of 1/8 rubber. If you have space and want to climb higher try a loop of 3/16 rubber.

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